Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Amazing Journey

Today the older girls returned from a week-long culture camp in Fort Providence. They had fun, but they told me that an unexpected highlight was something discovered on the riverbank: a message in a bottle that was dispatched from Alberta in 1992! We aren't sure where exactly it was dropped off but the letterhead lists an address in Willingdon,which is not far from Edmonton.



Over the past 18 years the bottle must have difted down a series of rivers to Lake Athabasca and Great Slave Lake before entering the flow of the Mackenzie. If it was dropped off near Willingdon it would have traveled more than 2,000km. Even if it started somewhere closer it is still an amazing journey.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

The Past

This week we cleaned out and reorganized the equipment shed, which was just as exciting as it sounds. It yielded some unexpected gems, however, with the most notable being something we found in a box of dusty old videotapes. Labelled "Nahanni Memories", it turned out to be about 20 minutes of wonderful colour footage taken in town about 50 years ago. There was no sound and the images faded in and out at times, but to our delight we were still able to identify some of the local elders when they were young. Local legends like Albert Failie made an appearance, as did Gus & Mary Krause. There was even a brief glimpse of the great-great-grandfather of two of our students!

It was fascinating gaining a window into life in Nahanni decades ago. There were some obvious differences: every structure in town was made out of logs, and people were still using dog sleds. But if you look closely you notice other things, like how the slopes of First Hill were entirely bare of tree cover because of a forest fire that had raged in the area during the 1940's. There was also some footage of the canvas tent that served as Nahanni's first school - certainly a far cry from the building we use now.

I've gotten in touch with the archivists at the Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre in Yellowknife, and it looks like we'll be able to get the film transfered to DVD. The discovery of this tape also adds impetus to our plans taking the kids over to the island next summer. An old trading post used to stand there, so the idea is to take Wayne's metal detector and see if we can dig up anything interesting. Who knows if we will find anything, but even if we don't I'd say it is still worth a shot!

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Poetic Interlude


Great bronze bells struck by the sun,
Are autumn trees,
Static - a dying civilization
Or a frieze.
They sound the hour of memory
But calmly, slowly.
The past on this late afternoon
Converging wholly,
Folds summer weeks like starlings flying
To thick brown leaves,
To bell-towers where a sundown city
Last light recieves.

~ Douglas Le Pan

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Fall Hunt 2010

Preparing for the school's annual moose hunt was a surreal experience. It is hard to believe that it has already been a year; so much has happened since then, and so much has changed. Some things are still the same, though - the fierce joy of boating upriver in the biting cold of a fall morning, the sound of the wind in the endless groves of birch, the smell of fresh meat drying over an open fire...

On Monday our little flotilla set out, heading for the hunting camp we set up last year about 20km upriver. The river was like glass, and there was not a cloud in the sky.




We had a larger group than last year, and it took us a few hours to shuttle everyone and the gear upriver. We set up our tents and settled into the routine of camp chores: splitting firewood, gathering spruce boughs for bedding, organizing the week's supplies. Many hands made light work, and it wasn't long before we were very comfortable.

I took advantage of the downtime to hang out with the kids and play some games. It was so great to see them again! While I don't plan on teaching as a long-term career, working with these children has proven one of the best experiences of my life. They are a very special bunch, and I know I will miss them terribly when I do eventually have to leave.



In the evening Brad, Darryl and Peter set out to scout for moose. They were successful, so the next morning we headed out to haul the meat back to camp.



The moose had been shot not far from Twisted Mountain, on a small island thick with willow. At least two had been hit, a mother and her calf, and the tracks suggested another had been wounded but tumbled down the riverbank and either swam across or was swept downstream.



They had yet to be butchered, so we got to work. Darryl got started on the calf, but when he left to help the others with the cow I finished the skinning and much of the gutting. Getting elbows-deep inside a moose is not for the faint-hearted, but I found it fascinating. There is a sort of messy elegance to butchering game, and it was amazing to see how a few knife strokes could reduce the moose to its component parts. The body had retained a remarkable amount of heat, even 12 hours after it had been shot, and despite the cold wind I had to strip down to a tshirt as I worked.


When Darryl came back to assist with some of the more complicated parts, he pointed out all the little details - holes near the hoof of one of the rear legs indicated the calf had been attacked by wolves, while bruising in the stomach area suggested a bull moose hadn't taken too kindly to the calf's presence when he tried to get friendly with its mother.

After a few hours we were able to load up the boat with meat and take it back to camp. The weather was closing in, so we spent the rest of the day working on the cuts and getting them ready to be smoked.



We had made decent headway by the time we went to bed, but as it turned out our work was only just beginning. We woke the next morning to find another moose had wandered down onto the sandbar right across from our camp! There was a scramble for the guns, and it short order the moose was dropped.




With that done, the agenda for the day was obvious. After breakfast we loaded up on the boats and headed over to the sandbar. We found that the moose was a young bull, perhaps two years old, with a stubby rack of antlers. Even though he was young, he was still sizeable and it took a long time to get him ready to be brought back to camp.



There was no rush, though, the rain had cleared up and the river sparkled beneath brilliant blue skies. The bite of winter was in the air, but it was lovely to work in the strong sunshine.


The rest of the week was spent smoking the meat and following the regular rountine of camp chores. On Thursday afternoon we returned to town briefly for a feast and drum dance, but couldn't stay long. The days are growing shorter, and we had to get back to camp before dark.

That night the skies were crystal clear, and as midnight approached the sky lit up with long filaments of aurora.



I went for a walk along the river bank and reflected on the events of the week, especially the three moose we killed. It has been a bit of an adjustment to incorporate hunting into my life, but I think I am all the better for it. Butchering game alters your relationship to your food in a very real way. It is difficult to look at meat the same way having felt its texture as you pull it from the bone, or the sudden hot gush of blood when you knick an artery. Some might consider hunting barbaric, but I think there can be a very real benefit to it. It is not just about killing an animal, there is a vast range of traditional skills and knowledge associated with the process - you have to know where to find the moose, its habits and behaviour, how to track it. Even once it is dead the work has only just begun, and now you must work to ensure nothing goes to waste.

Done properly, I think hunting can be summarized in a single word: respect. Respect for the animal, respect for all the food and tools it gives you, and respect for the land it lives in. The necessity of bringing down such a magnificent creature might be distasteful, but I have come to believe that it can play a vital role in fostering a healthy relationship with the natural world. Certainly it has been beneficial for me, and I'd like to think the same could be said for the kids in our school.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Welcome Home


I have finally made it home to Nahanni, and it is even more glorious than I expected. Fall has turned the forest to a rippling sea of gold and green, and the air is mercifully free of mosquitos. Tomorrow we are heading upriver for the school's annual moose hunt, and the weather looks set to be just as spectacular as it was last year. We'll stay out there for a week or so, and then on the way back I am going to try and climb Tthenaago.

Now that my unpacking is mostly complete and I have settled in, I can reflect on just how close I came to disaster this weekend. If it wasn't for blind luck I would likely still be stranded somewhere in BC right now, plotting the destruction of Greyhound Canada. To keep a long and painful story short: the original plan was to take the bus from Vancouver to Fort Nelson and link up with my colleagues when they came down to BC to pick up supplies for the fall hunt. I left on Friday morning and was supposed to get there on Saturday afternoon, which would give us time us to do the shopping and then get back to Nahanni Butte that evening.

Instead, I arrived more than a full day later than expected, thanks to a combination of missed connections and the magnificent incompetance of staff and drivers. After an unnecessary delay of 14 hours, I was reissued tickets for a bus that didn't exist and instead had to hitchhike the final 500kms between Dawson Creek and Fort Nelson. And just to add insult to injury: I was charged for the reissued ticket.

It is probably a good thing that I will be upriver for the next week or so, as I am sorely tempted to call Greyhound and give them a piece of my mind. I will still do that, of course, but a break will allow me to order my thoughts and more eloquently phrase my displeasure. Right now I think all I could manage is a sort of incoherent roar... Anyway. It all worked out in the end, so for now I am just going to relax and enjoy my time in the bush!

Friday, September 10, 2010

TITN

Well, that didn't take long. I haven't even made it to the NWT and already life has turned 'Northern' - that is, plans are pointless because nothing goes as you expect. I'm sitting in a Starbucks in Kamloops right now, entering the sixth hour of a stopover that was supposed to take 25mins. Apparently there was a terrible accident further up the highway, and as a result I missed the connection up to Fort Nelson. I can still get there, but I'll be a full day late.

Now for the tricky part: my ride from Fort Nelson to Nahanni doesn't know about the delay. He doesn't have a cell phone, and I don't know what hotel he is staying at. How to get in touch with him? Time to break out my sleuthing skills...

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Anticipation

On Friday I will depart once more for Nahanni, and I can't even begin to describe how excited I am.

This has been an intense summer, and a strange one. I have written before in this journal that for all the luxury and ease of city living, I have never felt entirely comfortable here. At first I thought the culture shock was just a passing phase, an uncomfortable but temporary bump in the transition back to my former life.

The feeling has lingered, though, and is just as strong now as it was when I stepped off the plane 3 months ago. My friends have all commented on the way my eyes sparkle when I speak of Nahanni, and it's true -- the North, once visited, is not a place you can ever truly leave. It doesn't matter if you love it or hate it, it gets into you in a way that is difficult to put into words. Perhaps there is an element of truth to the old saying: drink from the northern rivers and you'll never be happy away from them.

Fresh tracks and new trails await.