Over these past two years I have tried to climb Tthenaago seven times, and seven times I have failed. Now, with less than a week left in the village, I am running out of time.
The weather was bright and sunny this morning, so I set out to make another attempt. I wasn't feeling especially optimistic, though: the South Nahanni is currently in flood and water levels are running very high. I suspected that most of the landing areas would be submerged, and combined with the powerful current I was doubtful that I'd be able to find a place to safely beach my raft. Sure enough, once I got down to the put-in I could see that the entire far shore was washed out, leaving only sheer rock faces five or six feet high dropping straight into the river. It may have been possible to find a landing spot on the other side of the point, but to do so would have meant paddling through the whirlpool at its base -- and I was in no hurry to do that.
The weather was bright and sunny this morning, so I set out to make another attempt. I wasn't feeling especially optimistic, though: the South Nahanni is currently in flood and water levels are running very high. I suspected that most of the landing areas would be submerged, and combined with the powerful current I was doubtful that I'd be able to find a place to safely beach my raft. Sure enough, once I got down to the put-in I could see that the entire far shore was washed out, leaving only sheer rock faces five or six feet high dropping straight into the river. It may have been possible to find a landing spot on the other side of the point, but to do so would have meant paddling through the whirlpool at its base -- and I was in no hurry to do that.
So that was that. I packed up my raft and headed home.
But to be honest... even if the water levels were lower, I don't think I would have gone out today. From the moment I woke up this morning I've been filled with a deep unease. I can't put my finger on why, but my gut is telling me that this is not a good day to go climbing. One thing I have learned in my time here is to always trust your instincts when you're in the bush, and that caution must trump audacity in virtually every case. One of the elders has told me I must have strong medicine power to have survived that trip to Bluefish Lake alone, and perhaps that's true -- but in that case, all the more reason not to go. When the land speaks, I listen.


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